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DIRECT METHOD FOR INDOOR APPLICATION ON WOOD AN MDF BACKING

It is important to read these instructions fully before you start work.
These instructions describe the direct method of mosaic making. This means that the design is drawn directly on the surface to which the mosaic is to be fixed. The mosaic tiles (tesserae) are then stuck face-up directly onto the surface. The mosaic is then grouted.

Preparation

You will need the tesserae, artist’s pencils/charcoal, tile grout, a small paintbrush, PVA adhesive, mixing pots, rubber gloves, face mask, sponge. If your design involves cutting the tesserae you will need tile nippers and goggles.

Design

1. Using a pencil or charcoal, which allows changes to be made easily, start to sketch the basic outlines of your design onto the board. It is advisable to be bold rather than intricate in your design if you have not made mosaics before. If you are making a mirror it is advisable to draw an outline of the mirror on the board before you start the mosaic.

Laying the mosaic

2. It is a good idea to seal the face of the board before you stick down the mosaic. To do this mix a small amount of your PVA adhesive 50/50 with water and paint a thin coat onto the surface of the board. Allow it to dry thoroughly before working onto the surface of the board. Choose the mosaic tile colours you wish to use. If you are having a border lay it out on the board to establish the correct number and spacing of the tesserae. Generally speaking the gaps between tesserae should not exceed 2mm. It is a good idea to stick the border down first but do not stick the whole border down - leave out a section so you can sweep out the waste glass as you work. Use the paintbrush to apply the PVA adhesive to the surface and put the mosaic pieces into place. If your mosaic is going in a wet area you should use a suitable cement based adhesive such as bal flex and an exterior grade board as the backing board.

You can now cut the tesserae for your design. To cut, hold the tile in one hand and the nippers in the other. Put the very edge of the tile between the jaws of the nippers, as shown in the sketch below, then close the jaws applying gentle pressure. Ideally the tile should snap neatly in half and this can be repeated to make quarter tiles. Angling the nippers will enable you to make diagonal and other shaped cuts. You can also use them to ‘nibble’ away to neaten jagged edges to make circles and curves.

Glue down the outline of the design first, as described above and then fill in the rest. Once the design is complete you can fill in the background areas and complete the border.

Grouting and finishing off

3. Put the piece in a warm place until the glue is dry. Before grouting it would be wise to mask off the surrounding areas, eg. frame, mirror, etc as tile grout can stain and scratch. Mix the grout powder with water. Add the water carefully as it will not need much to achieve the thick, creamy consistency required. Wearing the rubber gloves apply the grout mixture to the mosaic spreading it evenly between the joints with your hands. Make sure all the gaps between the joints are filled. Immerse the sponge in clean water, squeeze it out as firmly as possible and use it to wipe off the excess grout. If any pieces are dislodged during this process clean the grout from the hole and re-stick the mosaic piece with pva. You will now have to wait for the glue to dry completely before re-grouting. When dry the surface of the mosaic can be polished with a dry cloth.